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high idle

PostAuthor: parker19029 » Sun Dec 02, 2018 3:05 pm

hi i recently got a 85 virago xv700 and cleaned the carbs and got it running. this maybe a stupid question but when i start it it idles high and when i push the throttle down on the carb it idles at 1100 wich is what i beleive is desired idle speed. Im just wonderind how to get the throotle cable to let the throttle to go all the way down.

thanks

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Re: high idle

PostAuthor: drainplug » Sun Dec 02, 2018 4:27 pm

You may need to lube the cables and clean the bars under the throttle tube
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Re: high idle

PostAuthor: Flyingdog » Sun Dec 02, 2018 4:46 pm

:yup:

Sometimes that throttle cable gets pulled accidentally and that metal ferrule gets hung up on the lip of the cable's holder.. Is the metal ferrule totally in it's holder that's mounted on the carb? If it's not, the cable will hold the throttle open a tad.

Also..which carb throttle arm are you pushing...#1 or #2 carb? That could also tell ya which carb is holding the throttle open. IE: # 2 carb arm controls both carbs...#1 arm controls only #1 carb.
Possible, just sync'n the carbs could take care of that if it's the #1 carb that's hang'n open. IE: lever hovering off the set screw atad.
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Re: high idle

PostAuthor: mark75 » Sun Dec 02, 2018 6:02 pm

ditto: :yup:

check the inner cable for split/broken strands that could hang-up.
detach cable from the twist-grip end, and drip lube-oil down the inner cable [any kind - from 3-in-1 to motor oil] until it comes out the other end to oil it well. [ditto for clutch cable]
JMO --- WD-40 is too thin and will quickly dissipate - chain lube is the best.
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Re: high idle

PostAuthor: parker19029 » Sun Dec 02, 2018 11:09 pm

when i push down #2 control arm it idles down like its supposed it is hovering off the set screw a little when i push it down on the screw it idles so i will tru to lube it and see if that helps. if it doesnt how do i sync these carbertors im fairly new to the motorcycle world so that may be a dumb question.

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Re: high idle

PostAuthor: Flyingdog » Mon Dec 03, 2018 1:27 am

Ok..first I would get ahold of a service manual and bone up. Bout the only way you're going to get anything done, yourself. Unless you take it to a shop. There's a few terms and/or methods that are a must to know for the DIYer. And the whys they are done the way they are.
Second..just to make sure everyone is on the same page...when you refer to #2 carb, are you talking about the one that goes to the "rear" cylinder? Left side of bike as if you're sitting in the saddle. If you are..that is wrong and opposite as I described. That is "#1 carb going to the #1 cylinder. #2 is the front cylinder (& carb). Can be verified by embossed #1 or #2 at base of a cylinder. If # 2 carb is hanging off thumb screw (idle screw), then I would say the cable and/or carb linkage is the culprit, as Mark and Drainplug have described. If it is indeed the #1 carb throttle arm that is hanging off the "set screw", then it is that carb that needs to be brought back into sync with the other carb. To do this properly your going to have to read up. The "real" way to sync will look something like this: (with the manometer (often called a mercury stick) or dial vacuum gauges of your choice).
Sync'n the carb set-up.PNG


Then there's the bench sync'n, which will get you close... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AS77T2CUsjI
This can be done with carbs still on the bike. Just takes little finesse, flashlight, needle nose/hemostats/etc.. and patience. Will get ya in the ball park, but should be sync'd with manometer. Cuz that set screw/lock nut will be backed off the throttle arm, completely, during the sync'n process. "After" sync'n, that's when the set screw will be set to where the throttle arm ends up "after" the sync. Naturally, this is whole lot easier with the carbs outta the bike. But, whatever works.
Not hard as it sounds, just gotta be done in a certain order to be right. Either way, what your after, is for both carbs to pull the same.
Just to be fair, this can be done by ear and feel by manipulating the idle screw and set-screw/locknut just to get by. But unless you are totally comfortable and know how the bike "feels and sounds" at idle and revving, I would not attempt it. Could really throw things off for ya. Only true/accurate setting would be by the numbers. Any way you cut it, the sync screw (between the carbs) is the key to this whole adjusting process.
Oh yea..should adjust your valves before any sync'n.
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