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Oil change, to engine flush or not?

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Oil change, to engine flush or not?

PostAuthor: NikNacz » Fri Nov 24, 2017 12:22 pm

Hi All, I'm after some advice on oil changes?

I am restoring an '87 XV400 that has been stood for several years. the engine has been turned over occasionally and will fire up, although it is quite rough.

As an initial start i had thought to replace the plugs, air filter, oil filter, fuel filter and associated oils / fluids. However, I would like some advice on the oil change before I begin.

My question is this. When I do the oil change for the first time, should I;

A) use an engine flush to remove all of the built up sludge / contaminated oil?
B) Simply run the engine til it is hot, drain the oil and replace with new. Then run for a 100 mile or so before repeating the procedure and replacing the oil filter for a new one at this change?

I have also considered running some Seafoam through the tank to clean the fuel system and the upper cylinders before I try to strip down the carbs.

Any advice or suggestions on where I should start / order I should approach this would be really appreciated.

We all have to learn somewhere so i am jumping in both feet. sink or swim time :-)


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Re: Oil change, to engine flush or not?

PostAuthor: bstig60 » Fri Nov 24, 2017 1:43 pm

Seafoam can be used both in the fuel tank and in the crankcase to help clean things up. Follow directions for using in the crank case, use half a can in the fuel tank. I would remove the old oil and filter and see what the condition of it is. Any fuel in the oil? Is the filter caked with sludge>? If the oil isn't full of fuel and the filter is reasonable clean, I would change oil and filter and then run it for a few hundred miles, then change both again.
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Re: Oil change, to engine flush or not?

PostAuthor: mark75 » Fri Nov 24, 2017 9:17 pm



I love Seafoam, and it is effective, but I personally am hesitant to add anything except lubricant into lower-end/oil gallery, so as Bill said, do that only if you really need to clean out sludge.

also, make sure there is no rust inside fuel tank then drain old oil, fill to proper oil level with inexpensive hi-detergent oil, and ride until engine gets to full operating-temp-range [several miles?]
then drain that and change oil & filter with good quality, wet-clutch-friendly oil of your choice [I prefer Mobile-1 full synthetic 10W40, ((50 in equatorial clime)) ] with the new filter.

I would change the 80/90 wt hypoid gear lube in the drive pumpkin also. [BTW: that "knob" on the very top is a vent - not filler and will break if twisted] (don't ask me how I know)
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