New Bike Same Ol' Me (I think LOL)

[Baja_Joe]

Ok so I dropped of the face of the earth a few years ago when I was here. I used to own a 1996 xv1100. I now own a 1990 xv535. when I get home I'll gladly upload some pictures. The issues my new bike has are pretty simple and shouldn't take long to repair.

[Baja_Joe]

heres the pic from yesterday

[Flyingdog]

[gleam]

heres the pic from yesterday

This board doesn't allow hot-linking images, I believe. You have to upload it here, which you probably tried but hit the 'too large' error. I used Irfanview to reduce the size to 60% of the original.

Welcome back to the forums.

[Flyingdog]

Ah!

[Baja_Joe]

This board doesn't allow hot-linking images, I believe. You have to upload it here, which you probably tried but hit the 'too large' error. I used Irfanview to reduce the size to 60% of the original.

Welcome back to the forums.

Thanks for the info and the welcome back. I shall upload here then, was trying to put a thumbnail in the post but it appears to have failed miserably.

What was initially wrong:
1. Fuel lines were dry-rotted. (replaced)
2. Fuel pump was hanging. (tested and remounted)
3. Reserve tank had no mounting hardware. (acquired and installed)
4. Front brake was non-op. (put fluid in master cylinder and bled, no leaks)
5. Carbs leaking fuel.
6. No battery.
7. Carb mounting boots cracked.

My TO DO list:
1. Rebuild the carbs
2. replace the mounting boots
3. Put in a battery

[Baja_Joe]

So i got my new bike running on the 18th, still waiting on my parts to come in but i did get a battery in it to try and start it and find out if anything else was wrong. Anybody have an idea on how to post a video?

[Baja_Joe]

Alright, I pulled the carbs, changed the boots, and rebuilt the carbs. The air cleaner was a primo mouse nest and has been completely cleaned out with the shop-vac. All i have left is a new battery, and filling the tanks with fuel. Does anybody know how to stiffen the rear suspension? Looking for some stronger shocks that are bolt on without heavy modification.

[Flyingdog]

Does anybody know how to stiffen the rear suspension?

Boy..is that ever a load question. First thing people will tell ya.."Up the Preload". Some riders intuitively feel that these adjusters can be used to stiffen or soften the spring, but sorry, that ain't the way it works. The suspension may feel stiffer when preload is increased, but that's because adding preload compresses the spring, so it takes more pressure to move the suspension any further. Adjusting preload simply determines the motorcycle's ride height. You also have to be careful that you don't change the rear end's "sag" measurements, too much. Will take some research, but solutions can be found. Certainly different shocks can be had, with few choices of springs. IE: standard, heavy duty, progressive. Sometimes, one can luck out and just change out the soft spring for a heavy duty one. If change'n out whole shock..be mine full.. Viragos use two different size bushing/sleeves on same bike. I'd have to look, "I think" 3 were 12mm and one was 14mm. Or was it 3/10mm and 1/12mm? Off hand, I forget with is which atm. On a 535?...I have no clue.

[Baja_Joe]

Does anybody know how to stiffen the rear suspension?

Boy..is that ever a load question. First thing people will tell ya.."Up the Preload". Some riders intuitively feel that these adjusters can be used to stiffen or soften the spring, but sorry, that ain't the way it works. The suspension may feel stiffer when preload is increased, but that's because adding preload compresses the spring, so it takes more pressure to move the suspension any further. Adjusting preload simply determines the motorcycle's ride height. You also have to be careful that you don't change the rear end's "sag" measurements, too much. Will take some research, but solutions can be found. Certainly different shocks can be had, with few choices of springs. IE: standard, heavy duty, progressive. Sometimes, one can luck out and just change out the soft spring for a heavy duty one. If change'n out whole shock..be mine full.. Viragos use two different size bushing/sleeves on same bike. I'd have to look, "I think" 3 were 12mm and one was 14mm. Or was it 3/10mm and 1/12mm? Off hand, I forget with is which atm. On a 535?...I have no clue.

Thanks, im 275lbs and 6'3 the bike drops a considerable bit when i mount it. Im worried that i'll hit a good dip and bottom out the rear suspension.

[Baja_Joe]

Hey when you are syncing the carbs on the 535 which way on the screw is for which carb? Does loosening the screw bring more fuel to the front or rear cylinder? And can you sync them using anything besides a vacuum guage?

[Flyingdog]

Does loosening the screw bring more fuel to the front or rear cylinder?

You're approaching this atad wrong. Adjusting the sync screw is bringing one throttle plate in sync with the other throttle plate. Yes, "in theory", I suppose you could think of it as adding or subtracting fuel to one carb, but in reality, one is really adjusting "vacuum/intake velocity". AKA: it's adjusting the throttle plate opening to the carb's venturi or throat.

And can you sync them using anything besides a vacuum guage?

Yes, you can bench sync em. Using at feeler gauge, small needle, finishing nail..what ever. Setting idle to specs (running), removing carbs, adjust #1 throttle valve to #2 with the sync screw. This will get ya close. May or may not have to re-adjust the overall idle, after the bike is running. Should definitely check each cylinder/carb idle'n, by way of the pilot..and...then sync them with a manometer (merc stick, vacuum gauge... of some sort) to make sure they're both pull'n the same amount. Them being horizontal mounted carbs, may be just a tad awkward bench sync'n while still on the bike. I suppose you could, but guess it's up to you whether to try or not. Be a big PITA....you'd be waay ahead just take'n them off the bike if you choose to "just" bench sync'n..IMO.


Far as which throttle plate the sync screw actually moves, you're moving #1 plate (rear carb), to "sync-up" with #2 carb (front). #2 is controlled by the idle adjust (thumb screw). You can watch which plate moves while turning the (sync) screw.

[Baja_Joe]

Does loosening the screw bring more fuel to the front or rear cylinder?

You're approaching this atad wrong. Adjusting the sync screw is bringing one throttle plate in sync with the other throttle plate. Yes, "in theory", I suppose you could think of it as adding or subtracting fuel to one carb, but in reality, one is really adjusting "vacuum/intake velocity". AKA: it's adjusting the throttle plate opening to the carb's venturi or throat.

And can you sync them using anything besides a vacuum guage?

Yes, you can bench sync em. Using at feeler gauge, small needle, finishing nail..what ever. Setting idle to specs (running), removing carbs, adjust #1 throttle valve to #2 with the sync screw. This will get ya close. May or may not have to re-adjust the overall idle, after the bike is running. Should definitely check each cylinder/carb idle'n, by way of the pilot..and...then sync them with a manometer (merc stick, vacuum gauge... of some sort) to make sure they're both pull'n the same amount. Them being horizontal mounted carbs, may be just a tad awkward bench sync'n while still on the bike. I suppose you could, but guess it's up to you whether to try or not. Be a big PITA....you'd be waay ahead just take'n them off the bike if you choose to "just" bench sync'n..IMO.


Far as which throttle plate the sync screw actually moves, you're moving #1 plate (rear carb), to "sync-up" with #2 carb (front). #2 is controlled by the idle adjust (thumb screw). You can watch which plate moves while turning the (sync) screw.

Thanks for the info the Clymer's manual I had wasn't very specific on what each screw really was doing. With that information and the vacuum gauge I just borrowed I should be able to sync them and ride tonight.

[Baja_Joe]

Ok, so last night I balanced the carbs with a vacuum gauge. The needle was bouncing between 6-8 inch pounds on each cylinder. I do not know if that is normal or not, but they are the same. My bike doesn't have a tachometer installed just a speedometer. What rpm are these bikes suppose to idle at with the choke off?

[Flyingdog]

Ok, so last night I balanced the carbs with a vacuum gauge.

Soo..how'd it run?

The needle was bouncing between 6-8 inch pounds on each cylinder. I do not know if that is normal or not, but they are the same.

Normal? Probly..depends how far you restricted the vacuum lines. You could choke em down (gauges) even smoother if you want. But if they're even readings, I'd say you're golden.

My bike doesn't have a tachometer installed just a speedometer. What rpm are these bikes suppose to idle at with the choke off?

Haven't had a tach on my bike since the 90s. I'm probly hovering around 900-950rpm on the 1000. Really don't know..just how the engine behaves. Tachs are over rated. Unless you're on a track. Even then..it's not a tradition tach..just a flash. Besides..you'd know it when the rev limiter kicks in. Ya just get the feel of an engine.

By the book: 950-1150rpm.

You can pick one of these up for $8-20. Works well if you wanna check things.

Real cheap, but works--> https://www.dx.com/p/2-1-lcd-tach-hour- ... 30-2017927

TinyTach(s) are little more robust---> https://www.google.com/search?q=tiny+ta ... AR6BAgFEAE

[Baja_Joe]

Ok, so last night I balanced the carbs with a vacuum gauge.

Soo..how'd it run?

The needle was bouncing between 6-8 inch pounds on each cylinder. I do not know if that is normal or not, but they are the same.

Normal? Probly..depends how far you restricted the vacuum lines. You could choke em down (gauges) even smoother if you want. But if they're even readings, I'd say you're golden.

My bike doesn't have a tachometer installed just a speedometer. What rpm are these bikes suppose to idle at with the choke off?

Haven't had a tach on my bike since the 90s. I'm probly hovering around 900-950rpm on the 1000. Really don't know..just how the engine behaves. Tachs are over rated. Unless you're on a track. Even then..it's not a tradition tach..just a flash. Besides..you'd know it when the rev limiter kicks in. Ya just get the feel of an engine.

By the book: 950-1150rpm.

You can pick one of these up for $8-20. Works well if you wanna check things.

Real cheap, but works--> https://www.dx.com/p/2-1-lcd-tach-hour- ... 30-2017927

TinyTach(s) are little more robust---> https://www.google.com/search?q=tiny+ta ... AR6BAgFEAE

It runs ok, idle is way to low choke has it around the rpm range you stated. I saw on youtube ( https://youtu.be/0HmeyySg4wg ) that the American bikes had a cover for the idle screws on the carbs is that true? I know there is the adjustment screw you stated above.

[Flyingdog]

bikes had a cover for the idle screws on the carbs is that true?

You're probly talk'n bout the tamper-proof plugs over the pilots. Factory item. Easy enough to drill out, so the pilot screws can be adjusted. Contrary to what lotta people think..these screws control "fuel"..not air, for the A/F mixture to that particular cylinder..and...really shouldn't be called "idle screws", as you already have an idle screw (thumb-screw). Personally, I call em mixture screws, but, that's just semantics..so whatever. Just do it slowly. Don't wanna drill 'thru' and damage the pilots (screw head) behind these plugs. Many times, while drilling the bit will catch the plug, solid (sometimes spinning it) and you can pull the bit and plug out together. Or... ya can drill a small hole and insert a sheet metal screw and yank the plug out. It's all how you plan to do it.

535 pilot screws - Copy.PNG

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HmeyySg4wg

[Baja_Joe]

bikes had a cover for the idle screws on the carbs is that true?

You're probly talk'n bout the tamper-proof plugs over the pilots. Factory item. Easy enough to drill out, so the pilot screws can be adjusted. Contrary to what lotta people think..these screws control "fuel"..not air, for the A/F mixture to that particular cylinder..and...really shouldn't be called "idle screws", as you already have an idle screw (thumb-screw). Personally, I call em mixture screws, but, that's just semantics..so whatever. Just do it slowly. Don't wanna drill 'thru' and damage the pilots (screw head) behind these plugs. Many times, while drilling the bit will catch the plug, solid (sometimes spinning it) and you can pull the bit and plug out together. Or... ya can drill a small hole and insert a sheet metal screw and yank the plug out. It's all how you plan to do it.

535 pilot screws - Copy.PNG

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HmeyySg4wg

Looks like the plugs were already out on my carbs.

[Baja_Joe]

so it looks like I'm going to be doing another single carb conversion for this bike. I'm thinking about how I'm going to be doing my intake runners. Thinking of 2 45 degree runner tubes coming out the jugs out to the right side of the bike with a single Mikuni with a velocity stack or a ram air filter. Been looking everywhere online for a premade manifold for a 535 and all I'm really seeing is 250, 400-750, or 1100 manifolds. Do any of y'all know of anybody that has them prefabbed for the 535?

[Jake]

Do any of y'all know of anybody that has them prefabbed for the 535?

Kit $585.00 or manifold only $295:

http://www.kjsmotorcycleworks.com/

$450 with carb:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/virago-manifol ... SwYUZdXfBI

$109:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Virago-XV400-5 ... SwnWFdf4p6

$119:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Virago-XV400-5 ... SwMdpdiklF

Ugly @ $140

https://www.ebay.com/itm/virago-manifol ... xyOalTabk6

The ugliest @ $150 :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/yamaha-xs-650- ... SwopRYct0K

There may be others, this is a short search. Do not limit your search to XV535, the XVS650 is the same.