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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 5:25 pm
Author: pachakutek
guest";p="59073 wrote:Here try this


What?!!!..
I thought this thread was "Float level adjusting - simplified"

JK.. good info. :)

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 10:48 pm
Author: vroomvroom
the haynes manual says: "...measure the distance between the top of one float and the mating surface of the carburettor body. If the float height is correct, then this measurement should be 15.8 +/- 0.5 mm (0.62 +/- 0.02 in)

I've got mine set to this. I haven't check the fuel level with the tube on the bike yet with it completely warmed up, but before it was warmed up it was sitting a little low.

Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2007 11:02 pm
Author: xanabella
I thought I'd add my 2 cents.

The first image on this thread was extremely helpful in giving me a starting point on which to base my adjustments, so, thanks!

Since I had already refurbed my carbs and didn't want to remove them again, and since I had reinstalled the floats with allen head bolts I thought I'd attempt the adjustment on-cycle.

With a rounded allen and a cut off straight allen at about 2 inches, it was fairly simple to remove the bowl. Once removed I simply used a pre-cut piece of plexi-glass cut to 19mm and held it against the tube that runs between the floats, I removed the float and after bending the tang a couple times got it right-on (simply push up the float till it stops lightly, but don't push in the plunger). This procedure was only necessary on the front cylinder and now all that remains is adjusting my mixture and syncing my carbs. I'll be adjusting the mixture with a Colortune plug and will be syncing with a vacuum gauge set-up (saving up for a Morgan Carbtune).

PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 4:38 pm
Author: Fingerpick
I did the Allen screw thing to my bowls too but used slightly longer ones with nuts on the inside to get the bolt heads down where they'd be easier to get at. Don't want to get them too long or they won't clear the cylinder barrel fins.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 6:45 pm
Author: grazingazer
set to 15 mm-1.5 cm
Image

Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:22 pm
Author: RusVirago
I cant tell by the picture where the bottom of the ruler should be??

Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:41 pm
Author: grazingazer
:yoursign:
count the marks on the ruler...it's on the surface of the float

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:49 pm
Author: RusVirago
grazingazer";p="127844 wrote::yoursign:
count the marks on the ruler...it's on the surface of the float


HOnestly I am sorry call me stupid but what does that mean??

What surface I am confused???? I figured out this much if you bend the tang down it lowers the fuel supply correct?? that is if the carbs are upside down?

Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:52 pm
Author: RusVirago
Thats a bad picture I cant tell where you put the ruler and where should the float be measured on the highest or lowest point?

I am sorry its frustrating...

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:57 pm
Author: grazingazer
i never called you stupid but it's pretty obvious where that ruler is on an excellent picture...if you emulate that picture with your own ruler you'll have your measurement...what more do you want

Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:59 pm
Author: RusVirago
Ok I guess I am a total noob when it comes ti setting the float....

I searched the web anda guy said you measure it from where the bowl mates up so from the crack??

And also I though its when its open???? But I guess its when its closed??? thats where the 15-16mm mark should be>?

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:06 pm
Author: grazingazer
the end of the ruler sits [ever so lightly] on the float with the needle valve in the closed position...i'm done

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:30 pm
Author: ss350z
Graz, your plenty clear. For me, I read about it, go and mess with it, and then come back and read it again. Only then do I really understand it and can fix it again, if necessary.

So, your recommending initially setting it at 15 not 19 mm?

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:34 pm
Author: grazingazer
yes

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:48 pm
Author: ss350z
Thanks, one more thing to do before I put the carbs back on. Good thing we have about a foot of snow and I'm not going anywhere soon.

Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 5:04 am
Author: lassesand
OK, as seen on the picture, 15 mm if you measure from the mating surface to the top of the float (actually bottom since it's reversed).

Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:29 pm
Author: Vyrus
grazingazer";p="127835 wrote:set to 15 mm-1.5 cm
Image


hahaha GG, I was good with understanding this whole post until you chimed in! j/k

15 mm from the mating surface to the top of the float, or 19mm from the top of the float to the main jet boss, all done while the carbs are off the bike and upside down on the table, or workbench or whatever you use.

Is this exactly what you are saying?? lol

PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:44 pm
Author: funkamongus
yes

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 2:38 pm
Author: RusVirago
Vyrus";p="130405 wrote:
grazingazer";p="127835 wrote:set to 15 mm-1.5 cm
Image


hahaha GG, I was good with understanding this whole post until you chimed in! j/k

15 mm from the mating surface to the top of the float, or 19mm from the top of the float to the main jet boss, all done while the carbs are off the bike and upside down on the table, or workbench or whatever you use.

Is this exactly what you are saying?? lol


LOL that is how I felt when GG chimed in but realy he made sense we just did not understand because we dont have anywhere near the experience that GG and others here have, at this point I can set these carbs perfect no problem!

Anyway to answer your question Yes its 15mm from the mating surface which is called the crack of the bowl to the top of the float if the carbs are upside down ( this also means you realy are going to the bottom of the float because they are flipped to make it more complicated :) ) and yes it is 19mm from the same point you measure to from the crack, only you put the ruler on top of the float very gently dont push, to the top of the Main Jet. Good luck!

Dont forget to bench test, bench test, and bench test! Also use the clear tube method!

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 3:24 pm
Author: Vyrus
Rus, how did you bench test? with a gravity feed of fuel to simulate the petcock being on prime?