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Extra Valve Adjustment Pointer

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Extra Valve Adjustment Pointer

PostAuthor: benpineapple » Wed May 29, 2019 10:06 am

There's a couple great writeups on here about adjusting valves, but I ran into an odd issue last night, thought I'd share the solution in case this happens to you!

So, let's say you have your crank window exposed, AP63s out, and valve covers off, and your hand-turning the motor over to TDC. At some point before adjusting the valves, rotate the engine a full rotation counter-clockwise, then proceed rotating clockwise to get to TDC. This relieves backlash and forces mildly stuck valves to seat so you can get the most accurate clearance measurements.

After turning the motor over probably ten times, my intake valve (front cyl) was not indicating TDC, with tension against the valve being constant. I cranked in reverse, then back forwards and it freed up at TDC no problem. I also poured a bit of oil on the valvetrain before replacing the cover, which should help it out for now. Will be tearing the top end apart at the end of the season to do a deep clean and replace all gaskets for good measure.

To be clear, I wasn't experiencing sticky valve symptoms while riding. I started hearing a light valve tick from the front cylinder after about 30min of riding last week, and decided to dial in the valve clearances since it had been about 2000 miles since the last time I did it. No problems now! Just rode it for 35 miles, no ticking.
Last edited by Jake on Wed May 29, 2019 1:23 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Reason: Moved to Wrenchin’ Secrets and Help Tips ( Shadow copy in XV750 )
Former 1982 XV750 owner, just here to see your bikes and help out if I can.

Riding a '02 HD Sportster now.
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Re: Extra Valve Adjustment Pointer

PostAuthor: Flyingdog » Sat Jun 01, 2019 2:30 am

I'm sorry, might be just brain fog, but something just doesn't sound right. But one should "never" have to rotate the crank "counter-clockwise" to line up the timing marks, nor should they. (I-front...T-rear) Missing the mark, one just keeps rotating crank "clockwise" till the mark lines back up with the stationary pointer and both valves are loose. If one or both valves are still tight (aka: valve is open) just keep rotating "clockwise 285°..should line up "but" check again that "both" valves are "loose". Not necessarily you, but what lotta people forget to understand, it's imperative that the valves fully seat for the heat to transfer back into the heads. Besides making the combustion chamber air-tight. They like to keep the lash as tight as possible. Usually to keep the noise down. But naturally, this can/will create a big problem...forgetting that metal expands when it gets hot. Might have to re-read the post again. Might be miss-understanding the point. :bg: Either way..good things worked for ya. "Different Strokes" :cl:
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