Fork seal removal

[summershandy]

A pair of large slip joint pliers make a good seal remover. If you need a damper tool, you can use the other end of a 5/8" spark plug socket. If your socket hasn't got the option of placing the extension from the other end or, if you're doofus like me and grind the wrong socket to use as another tool...just buy a 7/16" redi rod coupler and join the two together!

[bstig60]

By removing the seal like that you risk scaring the interior surface of the fork tube where the seals sets and that will cause an oil leak.

[crdnick]

By removing the seal like that you risk scaring the interior surface of the fork tube where the seals sets and that will cause an oil leak.

basically be careful, and dont fark it up.

[faffi]

You can try a trick that I have found to work sometimes, other times not. Remove seal circlip retainer and add pressure to the fork. If the seal isn't leaking too badly or sticking severely, it will simply pop out in a gentle fashion.

[bstig60]

That works if you fill it the tube with oil as well.

[summershandy]

You can try a trick that I have found to work sometimes, other times not. Remove seal circlip retainer and add pressure to the fork. If the seal isn't leaking too badly or sticking severely, it will simply pop out in a gentle fashion.

I agree...I did my buddy's 84 Maxim and those seals were a b**** to come out! Mine luckily just popped out.

[smithtec]

Remove circlip, use bottom stanchion as slide hammer. With uppers still clamped in bike. Seals pop right out.

[Octania]

Remove circlip, use bottom stanchion as slide hammer. With uppers still clamped in bike. Seals pop right out.

Not sure what model that refers to, but on my '81, the chrome tube is the same OD all the way down, so after you undo the bottom screw to innermost stubby damper, there is nothing preventing the outer tube from sliding right off, and in no way is that going to remove the seal. There is nothing to hit or contact the seal during removal of the stanchion.

I first tried adding all the air pressure i could get. Nothing.

I was really not interested in the resulting pool of oil by filling with oil and using it as a hydraulic cylinder.

I did spring for the Seal Remover Tool many years ago, and surprisingly I was able to find it, and it works just like the proper tool should.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal- ... al+remover

Great tip on the double socket with coupler nut to join them. Impact for me did not REMOVE the lower bolt, it only made it spin. Must hold innermost short tube, but how?

I wanted to avoid another store run, and the buy-n-sell store was closed Sunday [millions of sockets for cheap, you sort thru]... Little torque is required.... a common 1/2" hex nut sandwiched between two 5/16" nuts, on a 24" pc of all-thread, which I already had, served the purpose.

One crucial bit of information is that the thing you are trying to hold is 19mm or 3/4" 12-pt- so a hex will also work. I tried 17mm, 18mm [common GM nut size, lying all over the place in any garage here...] Nothing but a 19mm = 3/4" hex will work. Of course, it's too dark to see 2 ft down in exactly what you are trying to engage.

Fork Nut Tool.jpg

Fork Tools.jpg

[smithtec]

I've never had a problem removing the bottom bolt with an air tool. As long as you leave the spring caps on, there is enough pressure to hold it. So, you're saying if you leave the straight shiny part clamped in your triple tree, and remove that allen bolt, your forks fall off? I guess they did it different in 1981...

[TheDjost]

I've been reading about fork seals for a couple of days and it seems the first couple of years, the forks didn't have guide bushings. Those came later and it's the guide bushings that hold the seal on the upper tube when you use the "lower tube as a slide hammer" trick. On the older bikes the seal will stay in the lower tube and you have to pry it out some other way.

-Justin

[Octania]

That makes more sense. I did see guide bushings in the outer tube below the seal, and was initially worried that I had not bought new ones, but with <14k miles, there was no discernible wear. New seals, fresh oil, Prog brand Prog springs, and voila. Good to go.

[bstig60]

Check out the parts for your particular model here. http://www.partszilla.com

[Octania]

Still a mystery to me

here is a 97 special 1100 dwg

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Y ... parts.html

and I see the same configuration. It does not make sense to have to put the bushing and seal in after the inner and outer tubes are assembled.

[TheDjost]

Okay, keep in mind that what follows is generic advice an is not based on Virago or any other bike forks as I have not yet worked on one, but I have torn down and rebuilt hundreds of different types of hydraulic cylinders.

Usually the guide bushings will go in when everything is apart, but cup seals, especially if they are recessed like they are on bike forks, are easier to install (without damaging them) after the tubes are assembled. Having the tubes assembled means that the outer lip is fitted last, and you can see it. That way there's less chance of pinching it. If you put the seal in the lower tube first, when you slide the tubes together you can't see the inner lip of the seal and have more risk of cutting it.

At least that is how it works on heavy machinery hydraulic cylinders.

-Justin

[smithtec]

You can't put the seal in first on 1100 forks. The guide bushings wouldn't pass through the seal. #3 in the exploded drawing, that goes on #8, then the washer, then you slide it down into the lower tube and install the seals. I use a long piece of pvc pipe to drive the seal over the inner tube.