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Need carb install tips/tricks

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Need carb install tips/tricks

PostAuthor: Lasercutter » Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:02 am

Trying to re-install the carbs on my 90 model 750, but getting nowhere. Any ideas? My hair and knuckle skin supply is diminishing as rapidly as my frustration level is rising!! :nuclear:
1990 XV750A Shed queen - currently under rebuild/restore

I'm not lazy, I'm just "energy efficient"!
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Re: Need carb install tips/tricks

PostAuthor: cat3 » Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:21 am

1. Remove tank, or at least raise the rear of it a few inches.

2. Attach carb boots loosely to engine.

3. Lube inside of carb boot lip with spit or maybe a little bit of silicon.

4. With bike on center stand, wiggle carb bodies between cylinders.

5. Sit on bike, then grasping either side of carbs, rotate clockwise into the boots.

6. Tighten carb boot/engine bolts. There will be one of 'em in the back that's a royal ***** to reach, but it can be done.

7. Adjust idle/synch.

8. Ride it like you stole it!
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Re: Need carb install tips/tricks

PostAuthor: HITCAINTGRUS » Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:30 am

I learned after having my carbs on the 96 XV 750 in and out 12 times... that there are "tricks"...

That little bolt that's impossible to reach, you need to "sacrifice" a dedicated 10mm ring spanner (from memory) and bend the handle of it, so that when its on the bolt head you can still move it about 1/4 of a turn.

What I did, eventually was fit the 2 rubber boots to the inlet manifold first, by hand with the bolts hand tightened until they are almost all the way in - but still "loose enough" to be able to jiggle the boot up or down etc with that cut out slide (elongated hole) bit in the metal boot cover.

This way once the carbs are in, you have minimal tightening of the bolt to get it to pull up tight - in the cramped confined space.

Next thing I did was grease lightly the carb rubber boots "V" so that the carb body's can slide easier into the rubber boots.

Next I used a piece of hardwood, once I had the carbs "positioned" - to lever off the inlet side of the alloy bodys to "force" them into the V rubber boots!

Word of caution - you have to be bloody careful doing this in where you place the wood to get leverage. Do a little from each side at a time... wiggle the boots around a little to help them align with the carby round sections.

Why I say use caution... having done this a few times.. I got a little over confident and used a wooden hammer handle...to lever with and being round not machined flat, I slipped one time off the fulcrum point I was levering against - and dammit the handle hit the end of the choke body pin - which is a little brass knob/circlip type groove on the choke needle on that particular side - that engages the claw of the choke mechanism to lift the choke body via this needle and I broke the darn brass knob off the end!.

This meant that when starting, I couldn't use the choke on that one carb so she ran a little rough when cold until warm, just starting with choke body operating on the other carby.. no REAL: bigee BUT I ordered a pair of new choke body's, replaced the broken one (didn't have to remove the carbs again to do this, thanks be to God).

But you do have to be careful doing this levering and after so many times doing my carbs before I got them right, I was already well past caring on that particular night - late, tired, stinkin' hot and humid out in the workshop...sweat running into my eyes, sometimes your not 100% on your game and this was one of those nights.

Other than that - once the leverage pushes the 2 carbs into their respective boots just "nip up" the bolts - using that one "bent handle 10mm ring spanner" made & kept for just for this specific purpose for that one PIA (Pain in the Butt) bolt that's neigh on impossible to get at!

When all bolted up tight - fit all the rest of the throttle cables choke cables vacuum hoses etc.

I got to the point I fitted up a small temp fuel supply with tap & clear plastic aquarium type hose to the carbs fuel line, rather than fit up the tank every time -just in case shes not running well and you need to sync carbs etc its better to have the tank off to get at the adjustments for idle & mixture & sync screw etc

When its running sweet - re install the tank.

12 times with the carbs in and out & I only screwed up with the wood and leverage once...(but I did also break an old wooden hammer handle once as well).

If you slip you will break that little brass sucker choke body needle top off... mark my words... so - go careful with where you position the wood and how hard you lever on the carbs & don't slip basically! Instead move the carbs around and rubber boots into position to meet squarely and centered while just applying a little pressure then when you have it just right apply a little more pressure until the carb slips into the rubber boot past the "v" groove with the help of the little smear of grease.

Should be a U Tube how too vid for this step... seems to trip everyone up first few times!.

Good luck with it.

cat 3 beat me with his response!.
Madness takes it's toll - Please have exact change handy.

"Some say he eats Sid-chrome spanners for breakfast, and drinks brake fluid to wash them down, while others say he couldn't drive a greasy stick up a dogs date with a mallet, all we know is he's called HITCAINTGRUS (Head In The Clouds, @$$ IN The Gutter, R US) enterprises inc" (Said in your best Jeremy Clarkson voice impersonation).
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Re: Need carb install tips/tricks

PostAuthor: Cusstout 1100 » Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:47 am

There is a good write-up somewhere on the forum, but all I could find right now is this one on removal; and as he says at the end, to reinstall...reverse the procedure.
http://viragotech.com/newtech/removing% ... retors.htm
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Re: Need carb install tips/tricks

PostAuthor: Lasercutter » Wed Mar 25, 2015 6:51 pm

Yeah, getting them out was the easy part. Getting them back in, not so. It doesn't help that I have large fingers/hands. They don't fit well into small areas. Funny, I don't remember them being this difficult with the '82 I used to have.
1990 XV750A Shed queen - currently under rebuild/restore

I'm not lazy, I'm just "energy efficient"!
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Re: Need carb install tips/tricks

PostAuthor: gleam » Wed Mar 25, 2015 8:34 pm

To get them back on: very carefully slide the carbs (with the hoses attached) in between the heads going in from the right side. Then put the boots onto the outter bolt that you left in the hole but loose, make sure that o-ring hasn't slipped out, or fetched on something and folded over on you. I've used a flashlight for this before. Tighten the inner and outter carb boot bolts, wiggling the carbs around a little if necessary. Stand up beside the bike on the left, and hunch over and pull the left carb slightly into the left boot first, assuming you're right handed. Then you can use your stronger arm to push the right carb forward since the second one you do is tighter. You wanna do them at the same time, but one has to go in slightly before the other one can go in. Push forward on the body of the right carb, while pulling back on the body of the left carb. They should sink into position. Give them a little wiggle like a steering-wheel motion to make sure they're seated properly.

Then tighten the elbow clamps at the carb, making sure the boot is actually on the carb's flange and not just hanging off the end (especially on the rear cylinder).
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Re: Need carb install tips/tricks

PostAuthor: landcrab » Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:01 am

I hope this response doesn't complicate things but I have always installed from the left side. I don't know why but it seems to work fine. It takes me twice as long to install as to remove. It takes a lot of play/looseness in the manifolds to wedge the carbs into them but once they start I move to the right side and to chinch them down. I tighten the inner manifold bolts a little at a time to prevent having to loosen and reposition. Before the inner bolts are too tight to allow some rotation I install the outer bolts. Sometimes it helps me to close my eyes and see with my fingers when installing bolts. (I definitely agree, a Virgo is a bashful girl.) Starting with secure manifold O-rings is very important or you may find yourself doing the job twice. I inspect them well and secure with a film of weather strip adhesive as necessary. If they are damaged I replace them. Hardware store O-rings seem to do fine, I have never had one leak. You don't have much wrench room to work with so even slight rounding on the bolt head can make the job more difficult. Replace the bolts if you can see rounding, modify the wrench and remember your best tool is your perseverance.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
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