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Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: KW87 » Tue Jul 07, 2020 5:23 pm

Hi from Ohio,

I just got an 82 XV920J with 30k miles on it. I really like the bike and want to put all the time and research into it to revive it vs leaving it for scrap. This would be my first project bike so I’m looking for some sounding boards / people that have experience working on this bike. I am not very experience, but I want to do whatever it will take to learn, and I have some automotive mechanic friends to get a hand from when necessary.



When I got the bike, it would start up alright it just wouldn’t idle to well and didn’t like low RPMs. I also found out that the petcock would not close so it would flood the carbs and fill the oil after that. I found this out when I changed the oil and found a good bit of small metal particles stuck to the oil plug screw. (First time ever seeing a plug with metal stuck to it…)



So far, I had tried putting in an LED front headlight with integrated turn signals, LED brake light with integrated brake lights and turn signals, and replaced the jets, float needle, float boat and bowl gaskets in the carbs.



I ran into some issues getting my turn signals to blink (vs just turning on and staying on until canceled) and brake light to work (Only the integrated license plate light would come on and daytime running lights for the front and back.. After some work) but I moved that down to the bottom of my list to resolve after I know I have the bike running well.



I put the carbs back on and started it up yesterday, I got the box of rocks sound once or twice but it fired up without the air carb air intakes attached to the frame or vacuum hoses plugged/attached (I was trying to put on air pods and had not put identified and put nipples over any intakes that would need it).



The bike ran for a few minutes then stalled with the air intakes wide open. After I tried again I found that placing my hand by the intakes made the bike idle smooth out. So, I put the air pods on this allowed to back to rest alright at idle. While letting the bike sit in neutral running, I noticed a few things. The longer it sat the more white smoke started to come out of the mufflers it seemed like more was coming out of the right side than the left.



On my list I plan on getting a petcock rebuild kit or switching the petcock to a nonvacuum version like one offered by Huri (HURI Fuel Switch Valve Petcock for Yamaha).

KW87
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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: mark75 » Tue Jul 07, 2020 6:01 pm

KW87 wrote:Hi from Ohio,

I just got an 82 XV920J with 30k miles on it. I really like the bike and want to put all the time and research into it to revive it vs leaving it for scrap. This would be my first project bike so I’m looking for some sounding boards / people that have experience working on this bike. I am not very experience, but I want to do whatever it will take to learn, and I have some automotive mechanic friends to get a hand from when necessary.



When I got the bike, it would start up alright it just wouldn’t idle to well and didn’t like low RPMs. I also found out that the petcock would not close so it would flood the carbs and fill the oil after that. I found this out when I changed the oil and found a good bit of small metal particles stuck to the oil plug screw. (First time ever seeing a plug with metal stuck to it…)



So far, I had tried putting in an LED front headlight with integrated turn signals, LED brake light with integrated brake lights and turn signals, and replaced the jets, float needle, float boat and bowl gaskets in the carbs.



I ran into some issues getting my turn signals to blink (vs just turning on and staying on until canceled) and brake light to work (Only the integrated license plate light would come on and daytime running lights for the front and back.. After some work) but I moved that down to the bottom of my list to resolve after I know I have the bike running well.



I put the carbs back on and started it up yesterday, I got the box of rocks sound once or twice but it fired up without the air carb air intakes attached to the frame or vacuum hoses plugged/attached (I was trying to put on air pods and had not put identified and put nipples over any intakes that would need it).



The bike ran for a few minutes then stalled with the air intakes wide open. After I tried again I found that placing my hand by the intakes made the bike idle smooth out. So, I put the air pods on this allowed to back to rest alright at idle. While letting the bike sit in neutral running, I noticed a few things. The longer it sat the more white smoke started to come out of the mufflers it seemed like more was coming out of the right side than the left.



On my list I plan on getting a petcock rebuild kit or switching the petcock to a nonvacuum version like one offered by Huri (HURI Fuel Switch Valve Petcock for Yamaha).


Welcome to VTF.

good catch with oil/fuel contamination. un-caught that could kill an engine :skull:
it also indicates that your carb float valve(s) stuck open.

xv love brand-new-clean carbs, and fully charged battery.

I'm not electrically adept, but have heard LEDs need some sort of resistor added to operate correctly. :con:

your idle issue could indicate air / vacuum leak

box-o-rox is normal for xv. (even more Gen-I)
"Over the Mountains of the Moon,
Down the Valley of the Shadow,
Ride, boldly ride" ... E.A. Poe


Time flies >>> whether you're having fun __ :bike: or not :fan: ---

Any day above ground is a good day.
so Laissez les bon temps roulez. just roll safely --- Semper Vigilans...always watchful

"I hear and I forget, I see and I remember, I do and I understand." ... Confucius*

If you don't read the news you are not informed.
If you read the news you are misinformed.
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The views, opinions, and experiences expressed in this post are mine and may not necessarily represent views and opinions of other VTF members, so feel free to agree, disagree, or ignore them.
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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: bstig60 » Wed Jul 08, 2020 9:07 am

Start by getting a factory service manual. :VTF:
Bill
"It´s a friggen motorcycle, it´s not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you s**t your pants every now and then. "

Please take the time to edit your profile to show your location. City, State/Province, and Country.
It is easier to help you if we know where you are.


SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOAD LINK
http://viragotechforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=220&t=31501#p279545

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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: KW87 » Fri Jul 17, 2020 12:14 am

The manual was step 1 for me pretty sure I had it before I laid wrench to the bike. I might have had it before I even bought the bike. I've got the areas I need some assistance narrowed down. I got the LED lights with integrated turn signals working for the rear and front with the right flasher relay and a good battery.

Now I am down to hopefully just the carbs. I pulled them off a second time, cleaned them up some more and started bench adjustments. The only thing I couldn't get close was the air screw for the front carb. I think it must have been damaged because I can screw it in and out but it will not back all the way out so I couldn't swap it out. I matched it to the air screw i replaced for the rear.

I did remove the ?MVAC? tubes and plugged the ports on the carb except for the port for the fuel tank vacuum. I adjusted the floats, put in new jets, replaced the drain screw, and replaced the bowl gasket. Once all of that seems to be working smoothly, I adjusted the throttle on both sides to match and moved the screws to just barely touch them.

Here are where my problems start. Got the carbs on the bike right away I noticed

1. The throttle cable pulled its bar up off the screw I tried loosening the nut by the handle bars to give more slack in a cable but I seemed like I couldn't get enough to get the bar to rest on the screw again.

2. I got the bike started it liked a good battery... I've got some videos I will put on youtube but the bike is letting a good bit of white smoke out of the exhaust. I've thought of running seafoam through it once the carbs are good. https://youtu.be/qenIeLz8YYA

3. The video will also include the noise I am hearing from the engine but it seems to settled down as the bike heated up. (Now I know how important it is to have a fan)

4. I attached a vacuum gauge to the bike and have a video of the results. I am just not completely confident/sure which screw I need to adjust in what direction to level things out. Air screw (under each carb)? Idle Screw (Between the two carbs from the back)? I can see that I have more vacuum on the rear carb vs the front carb. I had rigged up DIY gauge and every thing got sucked from one bottle to the other.
They are short clips 1: https://youtu.be/euVk8uJBPAw
Snapping the throttle: https://youtu.be/euVk8uJBPAw
Throttle stick? https://youtu.be/jK4COviVYhI
I noticed that when I snapped the throttle it would roll back but the engine would sit at the higher RPM for a little before settling back down.

I think I saw one Virago post about what way to turn the air screw but couldn't related it to my situation.

The only thing I know for certain beyond that is that when I sprayed start fluid by both carb intake boots the RPM took a hit. I already have new boots and gaskets in the garage just waiting to make sure I won't need to take them completely off again. Thought it's a lot easier now that I'm used to it.... https://youtu.be/wlEsUqQ8kDM

Any help on the exhaust, carb adjustments would be great. Thanks.

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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: Flyingdog » Sat Jul 18, 2020 5:54 am

I think you're going about this atad sideways. IMO: "Quit turning things", thinking it's going to bring the carb back inline. Bone up little more on what's-what in those carbs..and..what everything does. I think you got some more cleaning to do. You got "air jets" under the choke tube that have to be clear. Choke plunger/orifice in perfect shape. Adequate slack in the choke cable. Emulsion tubes/slide diaphragms/slides move'n smoothly/jet needles etc etc...all have to be in perfect shape and work.
KW87 wrote: The only thing I couldn't get close was the air screw for the front carb.

First off: It's not an air screw..it controls fuel for the pilot circuit...aka: start-up & idle.
Second: It's gotta come out. You probly got a damage/deformed 0-ring in the spring/washer stack. If so..you'll never get it to idle.

KW87 wrote: I matched it to the air screw i replaced for the rear.

While 2 1/2 turns out from a soft seat is a "starting point", each carb setting will be what that carb needs.
You quoted: "I think I saw one Virago post about what way to turn the air screw but couldn't related it to my situation." Not entirely sure if I follow by what you mean unrelated to your machine, but if you remember this screw "only" controls fuel for the A/F mix, and turning right-cuts fuel...turning left opens the flow... AND... this is only for idle, meaning: the idle will go up or down "on that cylinder", without turning anything else (least it should).

KW87 wrote: I adjusted the throttle on both sides to match and moved the screws to just barely touch them.
1. The throttle cable pulled its bar up off the screw I tried loosening the nut by the handle bars to give more slack in a cable but I seemed like I couldn't get enough to get the bar to rest on the screw again.


That's not how it works. The throttle cable only controls how open or closed the carbs are: VIA the #2 carb connection.
The set screw on the #1 carb should never be used to set the throttle arm/throttle valve/butterfly (whatever term you wanna use). The only reason it should be adjusted is, so there's adequate slack, for the #2 carb throttle valve arm rests on the idle thumb screw. Oh yea..adequate cable slack, so turning the handlebars lock-to-lock doesn't pull on that same arm. That set screw is only set to the throttle arm (#1 carb) "after" the carbs are sync'd. Which brings me to the point: you're carbs are most likely waay outta sync. Good reason why you can't get the same vacuum. Meaning: one carb is pulling more than the other. Contributing to the rpms hang'n. That.. and your manifolds are not seated and/or cracked enough that you're suck'n air. Which also leads to all kinds of erratic behavior.

That ticking? Keep check'n that oil level thru the sight glass? Good indication floats are still not right. Sticking, wrong float setting, bad needle valve/seat, hang'n float needle. Could be anything. Adjusted valve lash, lately? Any nasty flat spots on the cam lobes, possibly something up on the cam followers ? Have you loosen'd one of the oil line union bolts on each cylinder to see if you're pump'n oil to the heads.

Well, that's a few things..coarse there's 'always' more :bg: ...but there's also something about informational overload. Why I suggested go'n thru the manual some more...at your speed. It just takes time and a (semi) logical sequence to get it set right.
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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: Cusstout 1100 » Sat Jul 18, 2020 12:09 pm

The "idle screw between the carbs" that you refer to is the synchronizing screw to get the carbs butterflies opening equally. On the hitachi carbs on your bike, loosen the set screw/lock nut on the left hand carb a couple turns, hook up your vacuum guage(s) or manometer to the port(s) on the manifolds (then plug the open end of any original hoses you've removed to access the ports for the vacuum guages). Start the bike, set the throttle stop screw on the right hand carb so it will idle OK, then with a long-handled screwdriver (I use a straight blade, not a phililps), start adjusting the screw. Turning the screw clockwise will increase vacuum on the front cylinder. Adjust until you get equal vacuum on each cylinder, then set the idle using the stop on the right hand carb; once that is done, adjust the stop on the left hand carb until the screw is just barely contacting the arm on the carb linkage and tighten the lock nut without moving the screw. You can then check it at higher RPM if you like, and adjust some more if you think it's necessary; I've found that if I have them set at idle, they usually respond the same at higher RPM. But I guess if you have badly worn linkage between the carbs, there could be a difference. I use a home-made manometer made of a couple small pickle jars (tall pickled onion type) with some tubing and about half full of auto transmission fluid...so if the carbs are really out of synch, be ready to shut the bike off before one of the carbs takes a drink of oil. Just did an '84 750 yesterday, so it's all fresh in my mind. :;:
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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: mark75 » Sat Jul 18, 2020 3:55 pm

Cusstout 1100 wrote:The "idle screw between the carbs" that you refer to is the synchronizing screw to get the carbs butterflies opening equally. On the hitachi carbs on your bike, loosen the set screw/lock nut on the left hand carb a couple turns, hook up your vacuum guage(s) or manometer to the port(s) on the manifolds (then plug the open end of any original hoses you've removed to access the ports for the vacuum guages). Start the bike, set the throttle stop screw on the right hand carb so it will idle OK, then with a long-handled screwdriver (I use a straight blade, not a phililps), start adjusting the screw. Turning the screw clockwise will increase vacuum on the front cylinder. Adjust until you get equal vacuum on each cylinder, then set the idle using the stop on the right hand carb; once that is done, adjust the stop on the left hand carb until the screw is just barely contacting the arm on the carb linkage and tighten the lock nut without moving the screw. You can then check it at higher RPM if you like, and adjust some more if you think it's necessary; I've found that if I have them set at idle, they usually respond the same at higher RPM. But I guess if you have badly worn linkage between the carbs, there could be a difference. I use a home-made manometer made of a couple small pickle jars (tall pickled onion type) with some tubing and about half full of auto transmission fluid...so if the carbs are really out of synch, be ready to shut the bike off before one of the carbs takes a drink of oil. Just did an '84 750 yesterday, so it's all fresh in my mind. :;:



use 2-stroke oil in your manometer instead of ATF, then if accidental slurpie happens it'l be no big-thing
"Over the Mountains of the Moon,
Down the Valley of the Shadow,
Ride, boldly ride" ... E.A. Poe


Time flies >>> whether you're having fun __ :bike: or not :fan: ---

Any day above ground is a good day.
so Laissez les bon temps roulez. just roll safely --- Semper Vigilans...always watchful

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If you don't read the news you are not informed.
If you read the news you are misinformed.
... Mark Twain


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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: Cusstout 1100 » Sat Jul 18, 2020 5:13 pm

Good point on the 2 stroke oil; I just happened to have the trans fluid on hand at the time ('sides, I'm kinda partial to red, I guess, probably why I've painted 3 XVs in different tones of red/flake, etc. :bg: ) I also made up a fuel "I.V." out of an empty propane cylinder for setting float levels on the bench and for feeding the carbs while synchronizing and tuning (on the 1,000s and 1100 - tank has to be off to access the pilot screws.)

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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: KW87 » Sat Jul 18, 2020 6:43 pm

Cusstout 1100 wrote:The "idle screw between the carbs" that you refer to is the synchronizing screw to get the carbs butterflies opening equally. On the hitachi carbs on your bike, loosen the set screw/lock nut on the left hand carb a couple turns, hook up your vacuum guage(s) or manometer to the port(s) on the manifolds (then plug the open end of any original hoses you've removed to access the ports for the vacuum guages). Start the bike, set the throttle stop screw on the right hand carb so it will idle OK, then with a long-handled screwdriver (I use a straight blade, not a phililps), start adjusting the screw. Turning the screw clockwise will increase vacuum on the front cylinder. Adjust until you get equal vacuum on each cylinder, then set the idle using the stop on the right hand carb; once that is done, adjust the stop on the left hand carb until the screw is just barely contacting the arm on the carb linkage and tighten the lock nut without moving the screw. You can then check it at higher RPM if you like, and adjust some more if you think it's necessary; I've found that if I have them set at idle, they usually respond the same at higher RPM. But I guess if you have badly worn linkage between the carbs, there could be a difference. I use a home-made manometer made of a couple small pickle jars (tall pickled onion type) with some tubing and about half full of auto transmission fluid...so if the carbs are really out of synch, be ready to shut the bike off before one of the carbs takes a drink of oil. Just did an '84 750 yesterday, so it's all fresh in my mind. :;:


Thanks that was a great explanation. I replaced the boots and gaskets before I took another run testing today. Wish I had checked back in for responses before I did.

I'll try what you mentioned along with testing to ensure the thottle doesn't change with full lock.

The new boots really helped vacumm was close and it idled with no backfires or sputters. The only issue was the taping in the cylinders and when I tried moving to 3000 RPM I got a backfire and sputter then the engine died.

I'm hoping what you emntioned will help to straighten out the upper RPM.

Thanks again.

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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: KW87 » Sat Jul 18, 2020 6:56 pm

Flyingdog wrote:
KW87 wrote: The only thing I couldn't get close was the air screw for the front carb.

First off: It's not an air screw..it controls fuel for the pilot circuit...aka: start-up & idle.
Second: It's gotta come out. You probly got a damage/deformed 0-ring in the spring/washer stack. If so..you'll never get it to idle.

KW87 wrote: I matched it to the air screw i replaced for the rear.

While 2 1/2 turns out from a soft seat is a "starting point", each carb setting will be what that carb needs.
You quoted: "I think I saw one Virago post about what way to turn the air screw but couldn't related it to my situation." Not entirely sure if I follow by what you mean unrelated to your machine, but if you remember this screw "only" controls fuel for the A/F mix, and turning right-cuts fuel...turning left opens the flow... AND... this is only for idle, meaning: the idle will go up or down "on that cylinder", without turning anything else (least it should).

KW87 wrote: I adjusted the throttle on both sides to match and moved the screws to just barely touch them.
1. The throttle cable pulled its bar up off the screw I tried loosening the nut by the handle bars to give more slack in a cable but I seemed like I couldn't get enough to get the bar to rest on the screw again.


That's not how it works. The throttle cable only controls how open or closed the carbs are: VIA the #2 carb connection.
The set screw on the #1 carb should never be used to set the throttle arm/throttle valve/butterfly (whatever term you wanna use). The only reason it should be adjusted is, so there's adequate slack, for the #2 carb throttle valve arm rests on the idle thumb screw. Oh yea..adequate cable slack, so turning the handlebars lock-to-lock doesn't pull on that same arm. That set screw is only set to the throttle arm (#1 carb) "after" the carbs are sync'd. Which brings me to the point: you're carbs are most likely waay outta sync. Good reason why you can't get the same vacuum. Meaning: one carb is pulling more than the other. Contributing to the rpms hang'n. That.. and your manifolds are not seated and/or cracked enough that you're suck'n air. Which also leads to all kinds of erratic behavior.

That ticking? Keep check'n that oil level thru the sight glass? Good indication floats are still not right. Sticking, wrong float setting, bad needle valve/seat, hang'n float needle. Could be anything. Adjusted valve lash, lately? Any nasty flat spots on the cam lobes, possibly something up on the cam followers ? Have you loosen'd one of the oil line union bolts on each cylinder to see if you're pump'n oil to the heads.

Well, that's a few things..coarse there's 'always' more :bg: ...but there's also something about informational overload. Why I suggested go'n thru the manual some more...at your speed. It just takes time and a (semi) logical sequence to get it set right.



When I was cleaning out the carbs and realized that screw had seen better days I was hoping I could get away with it but.... thanks for the note on that.

I should have thought about the handle bar locks. Two nights ago I read through the cable slack specs and took notes but completely forgot about it when I got to work.

I did not know about the lines until my reread of the manual last night and looking up parts. I'll give them a check.

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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: KW87 » Fri Jul 24, 2020 9:53 pm

So carbs seem to be going pretty good now my larger concern is the tapping sound from the engine.

thank for the advise about the choke.

Jumping back and forth between a walk through and manual was real helpful. All but one of the valves was adjusted way too tight. I when I got down the the last valves (intake for the front) I think i found what was causing the tapping. The rocker arm on the intake seems like it is seazed. I was loosening the bolts trying to get a feeler gauge in but couldn't get the smallest size in. Then I realized that the rocker arms would budge at all. All the others had a minimal give to them but this one was stiff.

Am I right in assuming that I need to replace that arm or is there something else I should do? If I need to replace it whats the simplest way of getting at it?

It seems like the manaul calls for basically disconnecting everything from the frame. Exhaust, brakes, pegs etc.

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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: Flyingdog » Sat Jul 25, 2020 2:04 am

KW87 wrote: I was loosening the bolts trying to get a feeler gauge in but couldn't get the smallest size in. Then I realized that the rocker arms would budge at all.

First thing "I" would do, is confirm that you were on the correct (clockwise) rotation point "and" flywheel/stationary case mark for TDC for the front cylinder. Seems very suspicious that just "one" valve went that far outta adjustment, on it's own. Not saying it can't happen. But..it's also easy to be 360° off, to bring "both/intake & exhaust" to the correct TDC point (IE: front mark= "I") . Long winded way of saying, if off as in: one tight..one loose..that's (usually) a sure sign you're at the wrong rotation point.
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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: KW87 » Sat Jul 25, 2020 10:27 am

Flyingdog wrote:bring "both/intake & exhaust" to the correct TDC point (IE: front mark= "I") . Long winded way of saying, if off as in: one tight..one loose..that's (usually) a sure sign you're at the wrong rotation point.


That is probably it I think I was out in the heat to long yesterday... Looking back at the manual I did have it set wrong when I moved over to the front cylinder.

If the valve adjustment doesn't resolve the tapping sound could th issue be this http://viragotechforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=23907&sid=98a1de741c88e72ecc85bc1e7599952c with the chain in the cylinder not being tight (coming unhooked)? is that common?

My plan is when I go back out tonight to finish the valves I'll open the camshaft covers and give the chains in the front and rear a poke for freeeplay. Probabbly replace the gasket for the covers while im in there.

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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: KW87 » Sat Jul 25, 2020 3:30 pm

Position change fixed the "stuck" rocker arm issue for anyone that runs into the same.

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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: Flyingdog » Sun Jul 26, 2020 4:24 am

Good ya got that figured out. Take care jump'n from one site to the other. Some info may not overlap not quite the same. :;:
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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: KW87 » Sun Jul 26, 2020 9:06 am

Thank you. I've been noticing that, guess ill need to settle somewhere.

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Re: Reviving a XV920J - Looking for help

PostAuthor: drainplug » Fri Jul 31, 2020 8:21 am

I'll jump in for a second.
I picked up a 1982 920 a few years ago that ruined the front jug twice in 5400 miles, the cause was the oil line banjo bolt wasn't cross drilled from the factory aii the way through. You might want to double check that even though your bike has a fair amount of miles on it. Just sayin'
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