Winterizing

[Dogg]

Hello, kinda new here and to riding. My name is Jason. I have a 2006 Yamaha virago 250 and its getting a little chilly here in PA in the middle of October. My question for you guys and gals is.... what is the easiest way to winterize my bike for the winter. It will be sitting outside covered up soon enough. Any tips as far as fuel stabilizer and how to cycle it or run the bike dry, any tips on battery storage for winter? Keep in mind im not very mechanically inclined so quick and easy but effective is probably my best bet. Thanks for any help and any tips you all have. I look forward to learning alot in here.
Thanks, Jason

[Flyingdog]

Well there's boocoo amounts winter preps..really depends on "how" much ya wanna do. As they're "all" good..meaning "the more the merrier". My important ones would be: Change the oil/filter, fill tank 1/2-3/4 full of gas, pour in required amount of "Stabil" for size of tank (they're all bout the same), then finishing filling tank. Run the bike few minutes, shut off, cool off, wrap in bike shroud (leave open on bottom), take battery out, check water level and take it inside and put it on a 1-2amp smart charger, inflate tires to bout 40psi.. thank the riding gods for a good season, do your "SunSet dance" (careful ya don't hurt yerself)

Sunset Dance.PNG

and say: night night. Come spring go thru a complete maintenance routine (including chain, valves, clutch, tires, air/fuel filters, fluids... etc etc etc) and yer probly good for long while. I guess, when ya think about it, the more you do before winter, the less in the spring. Guess, I really never thought about it as I ride year round.

[Jake]

This is what I do, fill ‘er up.

She’s ready to go on any nice day.

[Tommy P.]

If you want to learn, be a good idea to get a repair manual, It will have pictures that will help you identify what the procedures are telling you.
A battery maintainer hooked up is good, but being in Pennsylvania, I would remove the battery and take it inside and hook it up to the maintainer. Make sure you keep the battery on a board if you set it on cement, Definitely put stabil, I use the marine blue type, and fill the tank. Turn off the petcock or put a pair of hemostats on the supply hose to the carbs which cuts off the supply of gas to them, Drain the carbs; not hard to do, each carb has a screw on the float bowl to turn that will open a passage to the small nipple on the bottom of the float bowl. You can hold some kind of container under the nipple or slip a piece of hose over them to put in the container. The new gas is especially bad for bikes with carburetors.
You-tube has a number of good videos on winterizing your bike for winter. Probably a few for your particular bike also.
ride safe,
Tom

[Flyingdog]

Drain the carbs;

I sure wouldn't drain the carbs. Could lead to hardened rubber parts and/or residual gas to varnish/corrosion.. in or on vital stuff. Majority the reason float shafts stick. That's the ideal behind Stabil, being an emulsified liquid against the harshness of our ethanol crap, it will keeps rubber stuff pliable and clean.

[Cusstout 1100]

Fill up with premium gas, add stabilizer (I use stabilizer and Seafoam, both) in the recommended ratio-to-fuel, go for a ride so you're sure the treated fuel has gone through the system; top off with fuel/stabilizer. Change oil and filter (consider lighter weight 10/40 if you're going to be riding in cool spring weather). Clean the bike thoroughly, wax/polish/buff all shiny surfaces. Store the battery as FD mentioned above. I've been using this method for years and in the spring put the battery back in, turn the key and they start with no problems. (5 Viragos in the "family stable")

[mark75]

Fill up with premium gas, add stabilizer (I use stabilizer and Seafoam, both) in the recommended ratio-to-fuel, go for a ride so you're sure the treated fuel has gone through the system; top off with fuel/stabilizer. Change oil and filter (consider lighter weight 10/40 if you're going to be riding in cool spring weather). Clean the bike thoroughly, wax/polish/buff all shiny surfaces. Store the battery as FD mentioned above. I've been using this method for years and in the spring put the battery back in, turn the key and they start with no problems. (5 Viragos in the "family stable")

I would make one (maybe 2) change(s).
--- instead of "premium" fuel I would substitute "pure" fuel (no alcohol) for storage.

--- & as much as I like Seafoam (cleaner, stabilizer) it does contain some alcohol which over long term can attract water/condensation.

[Polkahero]

I use Starton as a fuel stabilizer, better than Stabil as it also treats the ethanol fuel from breaking down. I've always drained the carbs and never had float sticking issues.

[Jake]

Honestly guys, I’ve never used a fuel stabilizer and never had a problem with starting.

[mark75]

https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=PA

link for pure-gas (ethanol-free) in PA.

pure-gas does the things folks expect when they buy "premium gas" i.e. better performance / mileage, less destructive to 'rubber' parts (et al.), longer 'storage-life' (degrades/goes stale less quickly)
it basically is what gas used to be (less the lead) before those government-dolts messed it up adding alcohol.

[Tommy P.]

I suggested draining the carbs because a mechanic with 40 years experience suggests we do that as the new gas will corrode the inside of the float bowl, even with stabil added correctly. I have never seen this myself, however he shows a set of Virago carbs that are dirty and need rebuilding. As the teardown was in progress he shows the float posts and one was eaten beyond use. If my rubber parts harden, the carbs are rebuildable. I don't want to think of what a new carb costs or if a good used one can be purchased. I never stored a bike before this year. I guess the bottom line is be sure to do your research and then do what you think right, or continue doing it the way you have been.
Sure do not want to mislead anyone!
Tom

Ps: I also put a hemostat on the supply line to the fuel pump to ensure there is no gas beyond the pump. I spray WD40 in each cylinder, just a slight fog will do. Then after filling the tank, I spray a lite fog in the forward part of the tank. Both things recommended by the old mechanic. Not recommending you do this, just saying what I do.

[mark75]

yep. alcohol will denature 'natural' rubber, and it attracts water (from the air) that causes corrosion.

'dry' fuel does not have that issue. it can start to get stale after ~ 6 months, though.

only fuel to use in 'seasonal' engines, IMO.