Page 3 of 4

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 6:33 am
Author: faffi
Well, even a detuned Bandit make 98PS and just tons quicker and faster than a stock TR-1, so obviously you've got some stomp in your engine.

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 12:10 pm
Author: nanno
The oil-level-switch has been dead(-ish) since pretty much when I bought the bike ten years ago. After having a VERY close look myself and admittedly seeing it on another TR1, I figured that the odd dimple right underneath the starter on Gen1 engine cases is actually meant to be drilled out and tapped as it goes straight into the main oil-gallery.

And that's pretty much what I've done today, as the oilchange was due anyway. (That said, you only have to take the right engine cover off, so you could do it withou changing the oil, but it could get messy...)

Image
Image
Image

I'll put the hi-res pictures on my blog and update this post once I have done so.

The oil-pressure switch is a generic item with M10x1 thread, mine's meant to go in VW Vanagon 1.6TD. Unfortunately it's a closer at 0.9Bar (12-ish PSI) pressure, which is pretty much spot on, except for the fact (as you can see in the last picture) the light's always on, when there's pressure in the system. So, I'll have to get that one swapped out, next time I am close to an autoparts-store.

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 12:47 pm
Author: rantingsmith
Funnily I noticed that boss today and wondered about it ( I managed to swap the crank and put the gearbox back in today which means it is more together than it was when I bought it!! wohoo!!)

Let us know what switch you end up getting that works as I might just do that myself.

Cheers,

Rant.

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 1:07 pm
Author: faffi
Your knowledge of these bikes is still growing apparently, nanno, from an already impressively high level :GJ: :thanks:

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 2:45 pm
Author: nanno
Right, so I've gone and got myself a Facet 7.0008 (0.3Bar) switch, which is normally closed and opens under pressure. The perfect switch would be a Facet 7.0119, which starts to open at 0.5Bar (7PSI).

The reason being the colour-code blue Facet 7.0008 is standard on nearly every VW engine from Golf to Transporter and has been since... literally even though back then it was the colour-code brown 7.0108, but all other specs are the same.

I am pretty sure, if you're in the US you would want to go through the catalogues and find something from a car, which is more common and will then have a different thread. (VW-stuff is M10x1)

Still, works a treat for now and I'll order the other switch in the coming weeks and put the current one onto the turbo-engine.

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 2:54 pm
Author: rantingsmith

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2017 3:55 am
Author: nanno
Image

Image

Image

I've built (my) first equal-length 2in1...

http://greasygreg.blogspot.com/2017/05/ ... haust.html

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2017 9:22 am
Author: faffi
Looks really nice :GJ:

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2017 9:18 pm
Author: Hellgate
How's it rude Greg?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 10:30 pm
Author: Southclaw
Nanno, what brand of filter would you suggest? I found a nice round K&N pancake I was gonna buy (RC-1950) but after reading your post about the mesh being to course I got a little worried.

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 6:52 am
Author: nanno
Hellgate wrote:How's it rude Greg?


Not too rude, I'd say. :bg:
Nope sorry dude, can't really say. I've built the exhaust for a friend's 750, which is also why all the tube diameters have been scaled down. Additionally when the guy wanted to start the bike on Tuesday, the starter failed. So it'll be a few more days until I get some feedback from him.

Southclaw wrote:Nanno, what brand of filter would you suggest? I found a nice round K&N pancake I was gonna buy (RC-1950) but after reading your post about the mesh being to course I got a little worried.


That was only referring to petrol filters, not air-cleaners.

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2019 3:31 pm
Author: nanno
As this won't fit anywhere else in my opinion, here's a couple of things I decided to change on my TR1 and see if they can improve the everyday-ability of the bike some more:

1) When riding in rainy weather a lot, the rear brake pedal tended to get sticky. Not enough to really seize, but it was annoying and with my rear brake being adjusted properly this can quite quickly lead to a locked up rear wheel in the wet. No fun.

Image

So this is the solution:

POri0WTY4CucvL6jt7udwZAEbbKX0QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2985.JPG" alt="Image" class="resize_me" />

That, by the way, is a shaft that had been freshly greased up three months ago. (Yes, the weather was mostly awful.)

Image

Cleaned up thoroughly, drilled and tapped

Image

Image

2) my gear-lever is proper wobbly after doing about 120,000km (70,000mls) and needed some proper bushes with added shoulders so it would stay aligned better. (Dimensions: 24mm barstock turned down to 16.0mm, 19mm wide, 10mm centerbore)

Image

CCHvEssh_nVTuQUeKg-TAVPppTgACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3005.JPG" alt="Image" class="resize_me" />

And that's half-assembled to give you an idea how it's supposed to work. (Obviously prior to greasing it up.)

Image

Couple more things in the same blog-post: https://greasygreg.blogspot.com/2019/05 ... -jobs.html

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2019 12:01 pm
Author: Cusstout 1100
Re: your 2 into 1 exhaust - very nice! I'm curious as to what you used to make the flanges that seal against the gasket at the heads? I don't have a lathe so I'm wracking my brain trying to come up with something I can maybe "trim" by hand to fit... first thought was a piece of sched. 80 1-1/2" pipe but it's about 1/4" too small on the O.D. and would probably not seal well on the gasket. Other ideas are large nuts, and most recently (having seen your pipes) large washers that I could possible grind/file down to fit. I do have a set of stock pipes, but they're in really good condition and I don't want to cut them up if I can come up with a reasonably simple solution....we have 4 other Viragos in our family that those pipes could be used on if needed in the future.

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2019 5:17 pm
Author: nanno
Cusstout 1100 wrote:Re: your 2 into 1 exhaust - very nice! I'm curious as to what you used to make the flanges that seal against the gasket at the heads?


I hate to break it to you, but I do have a lathe... :r:

An easy way out were to draw up a ring in CAD and just have it water- or laser-cut at a shop. (That's what I do with a lot of parts, because (free) time is starting to become a bit of a premium item and the parts often end up being as nice as stuff that I make myself on the mill and lathe.)

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2019 9:47 pm
Author: Cusstout 1100
Oh well...I took a trip out to a local machine shop this afternoon. $80.00 for a pair of them. So I stopped in at an industrial supply house on the way home and picked up a 1-1/2" nut. Four hours later after using up one hacksaw blade, the use of a 1-1/2" hole saw to clean out the threads, a 14" smooth file and my bench grinder, I have one ring at a cost of $3.88. I'll pick up another nut tomorrow....as an old retired guy, I have more time than money. :-)

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2019 7:37 am
Author: nanno
Sounds good with me. I pay approx. 4-5 Euros per ring at my waterjet cutter...

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2019 11:26 am
Author: trcart
some really usefull info hear...!

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2019 11:44 am
Author: Jake
trcart wrote:ok, i am in no rush..what sort of price ?


Guys, take this up in private. We have the Classifieds section for business. Any posts related to buying and selling on this thread will be deleted and member may face sanctions.

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 3:59 pm
Author: nanno
It's been a bit quiet from my end around here, mostly because the forum's downtimes perfectly correlated with my timezone, i.e. the forum was down very often, when I would have had a few minutes to post something. So the following goes a bit from the back of my head and I have to verify a few things before putting them in the correct threads.

1) I have lately been playing around with a wideband lambda (afr) probe a lot and it's an absolutely brilliant tool (toy). :cl:
Turns out the richer 6FJ40 needle might be a bit too much down low. So I ordered a set of 6FM46 needles, but as I currently rely on the old gal to be my daily ride, I am a bit hesitant to throw them in. (Also work is giving me hell - as some know by now I work in R&D for a big European company ...) But no matter which pilots I use (and I went down to #15s) I can't get below 11.3:1 afr. This makes it absolutely brilliant to start (both hot and cold) and makes it run rather cool, but it somewhat kills mileage, which on a daily rider (and especially in Europe) does make itself felt in my wallet. It takes about 0.7L more per 100km than with the older VM38 roundslides.
2) I've ordered a set of GENUINE Mikuni #12.5 and #15 pilots, because it turned out to be running richer with an alleged #15 pilot than with the #17.5 used before. Generally I had very little problems with (cheaper) aftermarket jets, but the very small pilots have been giving me quite some grief.
3) I played around with some ignition timing, now that engine has done a bit more than 4000km it can be considered well run in and it lately has gotten very close to running 200kph on the German Autobahn, but unfortunately traffic interfered with any more attempts to find out what she can (or can't do). Even though admittedly she got up to 190-195kph rather quickly so I doubt the 200 mark is going to be much of an issue.

So that's (pretty much) it for the moment, to be fair my main focus (with Winter coming rather soon than later) currently is on the XS-Triple-Sidecar and getting that ready for daily driving. So if you're interested in other bikes as well, have a look at my blog every now and then. Additionally (over the coming Winter) I will build a hopped up 600 engine for my XT and most likely swap out the front-end for a later model one, so I can use the later XT600 brake caliper as the first gen one is horrible and it's poor braking performance (even after a FULL rebuild with sintered pads and braided brake hose) has led to some near-misses lately as it tends to fade quickly and gives a very wooden feel.

Re: Nannos accumulated TR1 findings (and blatant show off)

PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 3:40 am
Author: nanno
Right as the forum is somewhat unstable lately and I can rarely access it. (Probably has to do with timezones - I am out by around 8hrs to you US-guys). Here's some more reading for those inclined to do so:

--

This post is still work in progress and is basically a hands-on guide on how to install VM38s on a Yamaha XV (doesn't exactly matter whether we're talking 700, 750, 920, TR1 or 1100 really)

Image

https://greasygreg.blogspot.com/2019/08 ... m38-9.html

(I'll add some more parts numbers, e.g. for the 2in1-throttle cable and the dimensions for the carb to frame elbows, once I have gathered them!)

--

The next post on here (and on my blog is about stock and softer springs for the VM38) - in summary two pictures should suffice. 25 percent less wire diameter, means pretty much 25 percent less force required to lift the slides. As you have to work two slides... well you can probably do the maths.

Image

Image

The softer spring is a VM34/55 and should be available from the same sources you buy your VM38 from.

https://greasygreg.blogspot.com/2019/08 ... light.html

--

This one's a dear one to me... running an Ignitech box under the tank, where it can get quite toasty. I had planned for ages to move it under the seat, just like they did on the 1100s anyway. This one really only applies to the older models (750, 920)

Image

https://greasygreg.blogspot.com/2019/08 ... under.html

--

And last but definitely not least, a bit of a report on how the air-screw affects the mixture and how you find the proper setup with a wideband...

Image

(The corresponding video was posted a few posts back)

Have fun reading:

https://greasygreg.blogspot.com/2019/08 ... -idle.html